Diamond Clarity: Diamonds, all you need to know (part 2) clarity
I have studied diamonds at The Gemological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A), passed their diamond grading exams, and been accredited DGA, (diamond member of the Gem-A) I’ve been buying diamonds for around 40 years, and have seen many hundreds of thousands…good and bad. Diamonds, all you need to know (part 2) clarity
As with the diamond (part 1), this is a brief guide as to why and how diamonds are graded. It is important that if you are buying a diamond, you look at the diamond you are buying, and love the diamond you are buying, rather than put faith in a piece of paper or certificate which isn’t a guarantee but a person (not always impartial) opinion on a specific day.
The second of the 4 C’s is clarity, how free from flaws.
We grade diamond clarity using a 10x magnification loupe. The highest and most desirable grade is flawless. From there, clarity moves through various grades (shown on the diagram) until flaws become obvious to the naked eye and start to affect the diamond’s durability.
Diamonds with higher clarity grades hold more value and are extremely rare. Lower-clarity diamonds appear less brilliant and, if heavily flawed, can fracture more easily. Like the color scale, clarity grading is non-linear—the differences become much more noticeable as the grade drops.
The GIA scale is most commonly used and has 6 categories, divided into 11 specific grades.
When grading a diamond’s clarity, we start by examining it with the naked eye.
If flaws are easily visible, the stone falls into the Included (I) category or lower. Next, we use a 10x loupe, stabilizing our hands to minimize movement. We divide the diamond visually into segments—like a clock face—and scan it clockwise from 12 o’clock. The longer it takes to spot flaws, the higher the clarity.
Clarity depends on the number, size, type, and location of inclusions. These may be foreign crystals, tiny internal diamond fragments, or structural imperfections like faint cracks. Inclusions can appear white, cloudy, or dark—black or dark inclusions, especially near the center, affect clarity more than faint ones near the edge.
We group imperfections into internal characteristics (inside the stone) and external characteristics (on the surface). While certificates are useful, it’s essential to look at the diamond in person. Some stones appear dull or cloudy due to micro-inclusions or clouds not visible at 10x magnification but apparent under stronger magnification.
Only about 20% of diamonds mined are clean enough to be used as gemstones.
About 80% of all mined diamonds aren’t clean enough for jewellery and end up in industrial use. Even among the top 20%, many stones have inclusions visible to the naked eye. Diamonds that appear flawless from about six inches away are known as “eye-clean.” Sometimes, inclusions are cleverly hidden beneath the setting in a finished piece.
Some diamonds receive clarity enhancements through fracture filling, a process similar to fixing a crack in a car windscreen. Reputable jewellers always disclose this treatment. Trusted fillers often show a faint flash of colour, typically orange or pink, when viewed closely.
I’m always happy to show a selection of diamonds to anyone considering a commission. You can’t judge a stone’s beauty by a certificate alone—what matters most is how it looks to you. I bring experience and technical understanding, and I’m here to share that. But in the end, you need to love what I make for you—not just now, but for years to come.
