One of the questions I am often asked is, why don’t I claw set my stones, doesn’t it make diamonds sparkle more?
This has prompted me to write this blog, ” The advantages of a rub-over setting”
There are numerous advantages of a rub-over setting. They are easier to wear, keep the stone cleaner, and last longer.
For those who don’t know, I have a rather unconventional training within the jewellery trade. I trained as a scientific and medical instrument maker in Cambridge. I transferred these skills into the making of jewellery. Put simply, setting a stone is a way of holding it captive. I wasn’t happy with any of the ways I saw in books or tools in the shops. So I made my tools and have been fine-tuning the technique ever since.
Having studied diamonds and coloured gemstones at the Gemmological Association in London, I have developed a deep understanding of gemmology and the craftsmanship required to create exceptional jewellery.
One of the greatest advantages of a rub-over setting is something I have seen proven time and again throughout more than 25 years of making jewellery: exceptional comfort and practicality for everyday wear.
Every piece I create is designed to be worn and enjoyed for a lifetime. That’s why all of my jewellery comes with a lifetime guarantee and complimentary professional cleaning.
Clients consistently tell me how effortless their rub-over set rings are to wear. Without claws to catch or snag, they slip easily under gloves, into pockets, and over clothing without concern. The smooth, secure setting offers both elegance and durability, making it ideal for those who want a ring that can be worn comfortably every day, for every occasion.
Combining timeless design with outstanding practicality, a rub-over setting is one of the most secure and wearable choices for an engagement ring or fine jewellery piece.
The second advantage is related to the first.
Rub-over setting helps protect the stones from knocks and bumps, as well as grease and dirt.
Being hydrophobic, diamonds readily repel water but have an affinity to grease. Thus, they attract grease readily, which stops them from sparkling.
Claw settings are especially good at holding grease, which dulls the beauty of not only diamonds but also all faceted stones. As the grease builds up over time, it often fills up the void under the diamond in a claw set ring. This doesn’t look attractive and completely kills the beauty of a stone, sometimes even causing skin irritation.
The third advantage is security, the rub-over setting I make is much more secure than claws. Rub-over settings won’t need the regular maintenance. A claw set ring will need to be re-tipped many times in its life. The stones are increasingly vulnerable as claws wear away.
Of course, I prefer the look of a rub-over setting; the thickness can be varied to suit. Additional stones are set within it to give it a less heavy look. Stones always look bigger when rub-over set, especially white diamonds in platinum. The colour of a stone maximised with the appropriately selected metal colour. Surrounded by yellow gold, Rubies and sapphires look more opulent.
The rings I make can be stacked, thus making ideal engagement and wedding sets without the compromise of a gap between the two.
In my opinion, rub-over set stones are more attractive and stay that way longer.
Oh, I forgot to mention diamonds don’t sparkle more when set in claws, it’s an old wives’ tale. A well-cut diamond will have complete internal reflection, the back facets reflecting all the light to your eye. They sparkle as much when rub-over set, all the above points help keep it that way.
Good jewellery design is the perfect balance of art and science.
