David Ashton bespoke jewellery making
The Process - How to Make a Ring
Truly bespoke jewellery making in London.
Step into the world of bespoke craftsmanship and discover how a diamond-set platinum ring comes to life.
Each ring is handmade by David Ashton, using techniques honed over decades and tools he has crafted specifically for his work. This particular piece features platinum and diamonds, though many of the same processes apply to gold and a variety of other gemstones.
Every creation is a reflection of David’s dedication to precision, beauty, and individuality—hallmarks of David Ashton Bespoke Jewellery.
1
First, we take the time to meet with you—either in person or virtually—to understand exactly what you’re looking for. Together, we’ll explore examples of David’s work, discuss your ideas, and if needed, create a few sketches to help visualise your piece. Once the design is approved, the making begins.
A lot goes into making one single piece of jewellery
2
Making the band.
This photo shows the draw plates. The plate is securely fixed in a vice or similar fixture. A length of annealed wire is filed at one end to create a gentle taper, which is then inserted into a hole in the plate—slightly smaller than the wire’s current diameter. Using special pliers known as draw tongs, the tapered end is gripped and pulled through the plate. Beeswax is applied as a lubricant, helping the wire pass smoothly through and reducing friction.
3
Here you can see the rolling mills.
Rolling is a metal-forming process where metal is passed through one or more pairs of rollers to reduce its thickness and ensure a consistent, uniform profile.
Achieving this uniformity is essential in jewellery making—it ensures precision when shaping components, improves structural integrity, and creates a flawless surface that’s ideal for setting stones or forming rings.
4
Before and after milling & drawing.
This piece of platinum began as a 6mm square rod. It has been drawn and then milled to produce a 3.3 x 1.9 mm D-profile wire, which will form the shank of a ring. Here, you can see it hallmarked, ready for the next stage.
5
Next, David begins shaping the straight piece of metal into a ring—using half-round pliers and the strength of his hands to carefully form it into a perfect curve.
6
Once the ring is shaped, David welds the ends together using an oxyacetylene torch. Platinum has an exceptionally high melting point—3,224ºF (1,768ºC)—which requires precision and expert control during this stage of the process.
7
Now a complete ring.
To ensure the ring is perfectly round and the correct size, David uses a steel mandrel and a hide mallet—gently shaping the metal without marking its surface.
8
This ring will feature a bulb setting with both rub-over and grain-set diamonds. Here, you can see the platinum setting being shaped on the lathe. As with all David Ashton creations, every element is crafted by hand—ensuring each piece is entirely bespoke and one of a kind.
9
David carefully shapes the setting to be perfectly round, ensuring the diamond fits with absolute precision. With the setting still held in the lathe—now turned around—he polishes the surface and creates a post that will later secure the setting into the band.
10
The setting is then joined to the band using an oxyacetylene torch. The platinum is brought to red heat, allowing a strong and seamless bond between the two components.
11
Next, David carefully measures and marks the diamond spacing on the ring using dividers. A special ink is applied to the metal surface to make the fine marks easier to see. His training as a scientific and medical instrument maker in Cambridge has instilled a meticulous approach, ensuring exceptional precision in every detail.
12
The ring shank holds 79 perfectly brilliant-cut diamonds, with an additional 24 set into the setting—plus the central stone. Each diamond’s position is meticulously measured and marked using the same precise method, with every spacing calculated to a tolerance of just 0.01mm. This extraordinary level of accuracy ensures a flawless, balanced finish throughout the piece.
13
After marking out, the holes are drilled.
Exceptionally steady hands are essential at this stage, as each hole must be drilled to the exact diameter and angle for a perfect fit. The tools David uses may look familiar—they’re remarkably similar to those found in a dentist’s kit, designed for precision in the tiniest of spaces.
14
The main diamond is a rub-over set.
Many of the tools David uses have been custom-made by his own hand, each designed specifically for its purpose. His background as a scientific and medical instrument maker has equipped him with the skill and precision needed to craft tools—and jewellery—with exceptional accuracy.
15
David sorts fine brilliant-cut diamonds into precise 0.01mm increments, carefully arranging them in lines to ensure perfect consistency. The smaller diamonds in the setting have already been expertly placed and set, while the central line of diamonds in the band is now in the process of being set—each one positioned with absolute precision.
16
Tiny grains of metal are carefully raised and shaped to securely hold each diamond in place. Once all the stones are set, David dedicates many hours to polishing—working through a series of specialist compounds in multiple grades to achieve a flawless, mirror-like finish on the platinum.
17
The finished ring features a stunning natural fancy-coloured diamond as its centrepiece, surrounded by white diamonds in the setting and set into a platinum band. A harmonious blend of colour, brilliance, and craftsmanship—every element of this bespoke piece reflects David’s dedication to precision and beauty.
