David Ashton

The Process - How to Make a Ring

Here you will discover the process involved in making a diamond set platinum ring.

Every ring is handmade by David using skills he has finely tuned over decades, using tools he has made especially.

This ring is platinum & diamond, many of the processes are the same for gold, and other stones.

Scan 2brown-diamond


Firstly we meet or speak to you, we look at examples of David’s work and find out exactly what you are looking for, if required we do a few sketches and once approved we start work.

A lot goes into making one single piece of jewellery

There are numerous benefits to hand-made rings, and using the materials David does, discover more herehere & here.


Making the band. Draw plates, The plate is held securely in a vice or other fixture. Annealed wire is filed at one end to give it an initial taper. The tapered end is inserted into a hole with a final diameter just smaller than its current diameter. Special pliers called draw tongs hold the tip of the wire & pull it through, with the aid of beeswax as a lubricant.


Here are the rolling mills, rolling is a metal forming process in which metal is passed through one or more pairs of rolls to reduce the thickness and to make the thickness uniform.


Before and after milling & drawing. A piece of Platinum 6mm square rod, has been drawn, then milled to produce a piece of 3.3 x 1.9 mm D profile wire, to be made into the shank of a ring, shown here hallmarked.


Next David needs to shape the straight piece of metal into a ring, here using half-round pliers and strong hands.


Once the ring is round, David welds the ends together with oxyacetylene, the melting temperature of Platinum is 3,224ºF.


Now a complete ring, David makes the ring round, and the correct size using a steel mandrill and a hide mallet.


The ring is to have a bulb setting with rub-over and grain set diamonds. A platinum setting is shown here in the lathe.


David makes the setting perfectly round and ensures the diamond fits exactly in the setting. Still in the lathe, but turned around, the setting is polished, a post created to locate the setting in the band.


The setting is then attached to the band, using oxyacetylene, the metal is at red heat.


Next David needs to work out then mark the diamond spacing on the ring using dividers. The ring is coated in a special ink to make the marks easier to see.


The ring shank has 79 perfect brilliant cut diamonds set in it, the setting a further 24 plus the main stone. The spacing is worked out and marked in the same way,  all to a tolerance of 0.01mm. 


After marking out, the holes are drilled. Very steady hands are required to ensure the holes are exactly the correct diameter and angle. Yes, the tools are very much like those used by dentists!


The main diamond is a rub-over set. David has made his tool, especially for the task. His training as a scientific & medical instrument maker has provided him with excellent skills for such.


David sorts fine brilliant cut diamonds into 0.01mm increments, in lines. The small diamonds in the setting have been placed & set, and the middle line in the band is in the process of being set.


Small grains of metal hold the diamonds in place. Once all the stones are set, David will spend many hours working with numerous grades of specialist compounds to achieve a perfect mirror-polished finish on the Platinum.


The finished ring, the main stone is a natural fancy colour diamond, with white diamonds in the setting and band which are made from platinum.

Have something in mind?


European Union GDPR (General Data Protection Regulations)

The EU GDPR is designed to help all of us have more control over our personal data, and how is it used.

Who does the information GDPR apply to?

Data subjects, being all visitors and users of any website who are members of the European Union, and therefore who submit personal data. donaldryker.com is the data processor and data controller of this site. You can find out more about this law here.

Privacy Policy

This privacy policy sets out how I, David Ashton use and protect any information that you give when you use this website.

I am committed to ensuring that your privacy is protected. Should I ask you to provide certain information from which you can be identified when using this website, you can be assured that it will only be used in accordance with this privacy statement.

If I change this policy I will update this page. You should check from time to time to ensure that you are happy with any changes. This policy is effective from 22 August 2012.

What I collect

I may collect the following information:

  • your name
  • contact information including email address
  • demographic information such as postcode, preferences and interests
  • other information relevant to customer surveys and/or offers
What I do with the information I gather

I require this information to provide you with a better service and in particular for the following reasons:

  • Internal record keeping.
  • I may use the information to improve our products and services.
  • I may periodically send promotional emails about new products, special offers or other information which I think you may find interesting using the email address which you have provided.
  • From time to time, I may also use your information to contact you for market research purposes. I may contact you by email, phone, fax or mail. I may use the information to customise the website according to your interests.

I am committed to ensuring that your information is secure. In order to prevent unauthorised access or disclosure, I have put in place suitable physical, electronic and managerial procedures to safeguard and secure the information I collect online.

How I use cookies

A cookie is a small file which asks permission to be placed on your computer’s hard drive. Once you agree, the file is added and the cookie helps analyse web traffic or lets you know when you visit a particular site. Cookies allow web applications to respond to you as an individual. The web application can tailor its operations to your needs, likes and dislikes by gathering and remembering information about your preferences.

I use traffic log cookies to identify which pages are being used. This helps me analyse data about web page traffic and improve the website. I only use this information for statistical analysis purposes and then the data is removed from the system.

Overall, cookies help provide you with a better website by monitoring which pages you find useful and which you do not. A cookie in no way gives us access to your computer or any information about you, other than the data you choose to share with us.

You can choose to accept or decline cookies. Most web browsers automatically accept cookies, but you can usually modify your browser setting to decline cookies if you prefer. This may prevent you from taking full advantage of the website.

Links to other websites

My website may contain links to other websites of interest. However, once you have used these links to leave our site, you should note that I do not have any control over that other website. Therefore, I cannot be responsible for the protection and privacy of any information which you provide whilst visiting such sites and such sites are not governed by this privacy statement. You should exercise caution and look at the privacy statement applicable to the website in question.

Controlling your personal information

You may choose to restrict the collection or use of your personal information in the following ways. If you have previously agreed to us using your personal information for direct marketing purposes, you may change your mind at any time by writing or emailing me.

I will not sell, distribute or lease your personal information to third parties unless I have your permission or are required by law to do so. I may use your personal information to send you promotional information about third parties which I think you may find interesting if you tell us that you wish this to happen.

You may request details of personal information which I hold about you under the Data Protection Act 1998. 

If you believe that any information I are holding on you is incorrect or incomplete, please email us as soon as possible.  I will promptly correct any information found to be incorrect.

Google Analytics

User and Event Data Retention

User-level and event-level data associated with Google Analytics cookies is retained for 14 months and then automatically deleted.

IP Anonymization

I have implemented IP Anonymization, simply put, the last three digits of your IP address are set to zeros in memory shortly after being sent to the Analytics Collection Network. The full IP address is never retained, or written to disk.