To me, a rub-over setting is the perfect marriage of art and engineering.
Rather than using fragile claws, I use a lathe to hand-turn a solid, precision-fit wall of precious metal that completely encircles the gemstone.
Using custom tools I designed myself, I meticulously burnish and compress this continuous rim of platinum or 18ct gold just over the stone’s widest edge, holding it securely captive.
The result is an incredibly sleek, fluid design with absolutely no sharp edges to snag on your clothes. It elegantly frames the gem to enhance its visual size, while sealing it safely away from daily knocks and trapped dirt—creating a timeless piece designed to be worn effortlessly and loved every single day
A rub-over setting is arguably the most practical, durable, and modern way to wear fine jewellery.
Here is exactly why a rub-over setting outperforms claws for everyday wear:
1. Superior Protection for the Gemstone
Claws leave the vulnerable outer edge of a gemstone—the girdle—exposed to knocks. If you accidentally hit a claw-set diamond against a granite countertop or a car door, the stone can easily chip. A rub-over setting wraps that entire edge in solid precious metal, acting like a protective bumper.
2. Zero Snagging or Catching
Claws are notorious for acting like tiny hooks. They catch on winter knitwear, pull threads on delicate silk scarves, and pierce right through latex or winter gloves. Because a rub-over setting is perfectly smooth all the way around, it glides effortlessly over fabrics without a single snag.
3. Maximum Security
If a single claw gets snagged and pulls backward, the gemstone becomes loose and can easily fall out. A rub-over setting uses a continuous wall of metal burnished tightly over the stone. There are no individual parts to catch or bend out of shape, making it incredibly secure.
4. It Stays Cleaner, Longer
Claw settings have open gaps underneath and around the sides. Hand cream, soap, oil, and dead skin quickly build up in these cavities, blocking light and making the diamond look dull. A rub-over setting seals the perimeter of the stone, preventing dirt from getting trapped underneath so your gem keeps its sparkle.
5. An Illusion of Size
Because the solid band of highly polished platinum or gold frames the diamond, it blends visually with the stone. This often creates an optical illusion, making the diamond look significantly larger than it would if it were held by thin, isolated claws.
Understanding the Rub-over Setting (And Why It Outperforms Claws)A Note on Craftsmanship: While a rub-over setting has massive benefits for the wearer, it is much harder for the jeweller to create. Claw settings are relatively forgiving, but a rub-over setting requires absolute mathematical precision. The metal bezel must be turned and burnished over the stone with completely uniform pressure to avoid crushing the gem while ensuring a seamless, smooth finish.
